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Anti
Aging Cream

Anti-Aging
Wrinkle
Creams
Do
They Work? The Mayo
Clinic
Reveals Its Findings
Many
wrinkle creams and lotions sold in department stores, in drugstores and on
the Internet promise to reduce wrinkles and prevent or reverse damage
caused by the sun.
Do
they work? Research suggests that some wrinkle creams contain ingredients
that may improve wrinkles. But many of these ingredients haven't undergone
scientific research to prove this benefit.
If
you're looking for a face-lift in a bottle, you probably won't find it in
over-the-counter (nonprescription) wrinkle creams. But they may slightly
improve the appearance of your skin, depending on how long you use the
product and the amount and type of the active ingredient in the wrinkle
cream.
Anti-aging
and
common
ingredients in anti-wrinkle creams
The
effectiveness of anti-wrinkle creams depends in part on the active
ingredient or ingredients. Here are some common ingredients that may
result in slight to modest improvements in wrinkles.
Retinol. Retinol is a vitamin A compound and is
the first antioxidant to be widely used in nonprescription wrinkle creams.
Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals — unstable
oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Retinol is
less potent than the vitamin A derivative tretinoin, a topical treatment
approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating wrinkles.
Tretinoin is available only by prescription. Avoid vitamin A derivatives
if you are pregnant or may become pregnant because they increase the risk
of birth defects.
Hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy
acids and poly hydroxy acids are all synthetic versions of acids derived
from sugar-containing fruits. These acids are exfoliants — substances
that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the growth of
smooth, evenly pigmented new skin. Because hydroxy acids increase your
susceptibility to sun damage, always wear sunscreen during use and for at
least one week afterward.
Coenzyme Q10. Coenzyme Q10 is a nutrient that
helps regulate energy production in cells. Some studies have shown
reduction in fine wrinkles around the eyes with no side effects. Other
studies show that application before sun exposure protects against sun
damage.
Copper peptides. Copper is a trace element found
in every cell. In products applied to the skin, it's combined with small
protein fragments called peptides. Copper peptides enhance wound healing.
They also stimulate production of collagen and may enhance the action of
antioxidants.
Kinetin. A plant growth factor, kinetin may
improve wrinkles and uneven pigmentation with minimal irritation. It's
unclear how it works, but it may help reduce wrinkles by helping skin
retain moisture and by stimulating the production of collagen. It may also
be a potent antioxidant.
Tea extracts. Green, black and oolong tea contain
compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Green tea
extracts are the ones most commonly found in wrinkle creams.
Anti-aging
with
no
guarantees: assessing safety and effectiveness
The
FDA classifies creams and lotions as cosmetics, which are defined as
having no medical value. So the FDA regulates them less strictly than it
does drugs. This means that products don't need to undergo rigorous
testing for safety and effectiveness before approval to go on the
market.
The
FDA does step in, however, when advertisements portray cosmetics as drugs
or when cosmetics contain ingredients that may pose a potential health
hazard to consumers. For example, in 2002, the FDA ordered manufacturers
of products containing alpha hydroxy acids to include a warning label
stating that the acids may increase the risk of sunburn.
Because
the FDA doesn't evaluate cosmetic products for effectiveness, there's no
guarantee that any over-the-counter product will reduce your
wrinkles.
Consider
these points when judging the merits of using a wrinkle cream:
Lower doses. Nonprescription wrinkle creams
contain lower concentrations of active ingredients than do prescription
creams. So results, if any, are limited and usually short-lived.
Latest research. Research suggests that certain
ingredients may improve wrinkles. However, most anti-wrinkle creams
haven't been subjected to the comprehensive, objective research required
to prove this benefit.
Cost. Cost has no relationship to effectiveness.
Just because a wrinkle cream is more costly, may not mean that it's more
effective than a less-costly product.
Daily use. You'll likely need to use the wrinkle
cream once or twice a day for many weeks before noticing any improvements.
And once you discontinue using the product, your skin may return to its
original appearance.
Side effects. Some products may cause skin
irritation, rashes, burning or redness. Be sure to read and follow the
product instructions to limit possible side effects.
Anti-aging by following
your anti-wrinkle regimen
An anti-wrinkle cream may lessen the appearance of your
wrinkles, depending on how often you use it, the type and amount of active
ingredient in the wrinkle cream, and the extent of the wrinkles you want
to treat.
But if you want to take the guesswork out of your
skin-care regimen, try these more reliable ways to improve and maintain
your skin's youthful appearance.
Protect
your skin from the sun. Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light
speeds up the natural aging process of your skin, causing wrinkles and
rough, blotchy skin. In fact, sun exposure is the No. 1 reason for aging
signs in the skin, including uneven pigmentation. Protect your skin —
and prevent future wrinkles — by limiting the time you spend in the sun
and always wearing protective clothing and hats. Also, use sunscreen when
outdoors, even in winter.
Choose
products with built-in sunscreen. When selecting skin-care products,
choose those with a built-in sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15.
Also, be sure to select products that block both UVA and UVB rays.
Use
moisturizers. Dry skin turns plump skin cells into shriveled ones,
creating fine lines and wrinkles long before you're due. Though
moisturizers can't prevent wrinkles, they can temporarily mask tiny lines
and creases.
Don't
smoke. Smoking causes narrowing of the blood vessels in the
outermost layers of your skin. It also damages collagen and elastin —
fibers that give your skin its strength and elasticity. As a result, skin
begins to sag and wrinkle prematurely.
If you're concerned about the appearance of your skin,
see your dermatologist. He or she can help you create a personalized
skin-care plan by assessing your skin type, evaluating your skin's
condition and recommending products likely to be effective. If you're
looking for more dramatic results, a dermatologist can recommend medical
treatments for wrinkles, including prescription creams, botulinum toxin
(Botox) injections or skin resurfacing techniques.
Sources:
The
Mayo Clinic staff
article
on wrinkles.
Wikipedia
article on anti-aging
cream.
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